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MOT Checklist: 20 Things to Check Before Your MOT

Our MOT checklist covers 20 quick pre-MOT checks, from bulbs and tyres to windscreen chips and warning lights, so you can fix easy faults before the test.

Car Check UK TeamPublished 25 October 20269 min read
In this guide
  1. Why pre-MOT checks are worth doing
  2. The 20-point MOT checklist at a glance
  3. Lights: checks 1 to 4
  4. Tyres: checks 5 and 6
  5. Wipers, washers and windscreen: checks 7 to 10
  6. Brakes, steering and suspension: checks 11 and 12
  7. Horn, seatbelts, mirrors and number plates: checks 13 to 16
  8. Fluids and warning lights: checks 17 and 18
  9. Exhaust and bodywork: checks 19 and 20
  10. What does the MOT tester check?
  11. What to bring to your MOT
  12. MOT-day tips: how to avoid a refusal or a fail
  13. Next steps: get your MOT booked

An MOT checklist is a set of quick checks you can do at home before the test: lights, tyres, wipers and washers, windscreen damage, brakes, horn, seatbelts, mirrors, number plates, fluids, dashboard warning lights and the exhaust. Most need nothing more than a helper and a 20p coin. They catch the simple faults behind a lot of avoidable fails.

Why pre-MOT checks are worth doing

Lighting and electrical faults are the most common reason cars fail. In DVSA's MOT data for April 2025 to March 2026, 27.51% of car and light van MOTs failed first time, and lighting and electrical defects turned up on 10.44% of all tests.

Many of those faults are cheap to fix yourself, and sorting them first saves a second trip and possibly a retest fee (our guide to MOT costs and retest fees explains when a retest is free). Read last year's advisories in your MOT history too, because worn parts flagged one year often fail the next.

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The 20-point MOT checklist at a glance

# Check Look for
1 Headlights Dipped and main beam work
2 Side, tail and number plate lights All lit, lenses intact
3 Brake lights All working, including the high-level one
4 Indicators, hazards, fog and reversing lights All working
5 Tyre tread At least 1.6mm
6 Tyre condition and pressures No cuts or bulges, matching sizes per axle
7 Wiper blades Not split or smearing
8 Washers Screenwash topped up, jets working
9 Windscreen No chips or cracks over the limits
10 Clear view Nothing blocking the swept area
11 Brakes Firm pedal, parking brake holds
12 Steering and suspension No knocks or excess play
13 Horn Works, with a steady tone
14 Seatbelts No cuts, buckles work
15 Mirrors Present and secure
16 Number plates Clean, secure, legal font
17 Fluids Brake fluid, steering fluid, oil, fuel
18 Warning lights No fault lights stay on
19 Exhaust No blowing, leaks or heavy smoke
20 Doors, bonnet, boot, fuel cap, seats All open, close and lock

Lights: checks 1 to 4

Use a helper, or reverse up to a garage door or shop window and watch the reflection.

1. Headlights. Check dipped and main beam on both sides, and that the blue main-beam warning light comes on. On cars first used from 1 April 1986, a broken main-beam warning light is a major defect. The tester also checks headlight aim, so get it adjusted if the beam looks wrong after a bulb change.

2. Sidelights, tail lights and number plate lights. These should all light up together. Look for cracked lenses and condensation inside the units.

3. Brake lights. Have someone press the pedal while you check both brake lights and the high-level light.

4. Indicators, hazards, fog and reversing lights. Check the front, side repeater and rear indicators, then the hazards. The rear fog light is tested on cars first used from 1 April 1980, and reversing lights on cars first used from 1 September 2009.

Tyres: checks 5 and 6

5. Tread depth. Cars need at least 1.6mm across the central three-quarters of the tread, all the way round. Push a 20p coin into the main grooves: if you can't see the outer band, you're above the limit, and if you can, measure with a gauge. Tread below the limit is a dangerous defect, so the car can't be driven away until it's fixed. See our guide to legal tyre tread depth in the UK.

6. Condition, sizes and pressures. Check both sidewalls for cuts, lumps, bulges and exposed cords. Tyres on the same axle must be the same size and construction, and an obviously under-inflated tyre is a minor defect. Cars first used from 1 January 2012 also have the tyre pressure monitoring system checked, but the spare isn't inspected.

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Wipers, washers and windscreen: checks 7 to 10

7. Wiper blades. A defective blade is a minor defect. A missing blade, or one that obviously isn't clearing the screen, is a major defect and a fail.

8. Washers and screenwash. Washers that don't work, or don't provide enough fluid to clear the screen, are a major defect. An empty bottle really can fail your MOT.

9. Windscreen chips and cracks. What counts depends on where the damage is:

Part of the windscreen Damage that can fail
Zone A: a 290mm-wide area centred on the steering wheel, within the swept area Larger than 10mm across
The rest of the area the wipers sweep Larger than 40mm across

Damage only fails if it significantly affects your view of the road. A flush, barely visible repair doesn't count, so filling a chip early can save a new windscreen.

10. A clear view. Remove sat nav mounts, dangling air fresheners and large stickers from the swept area, because anything that significantly blocks your view of the road is a major defect.

Brakes, steering and suspension: checks 11 and 12

11. Brakes and parking brake. The pedal should feel firm, and the car shouldn't pull to one side or grind when you brake. Check the parking brake holds the car on a slope, and that any electronic parking brake warning light goes out.

12. Steering and suspension. The steering wheel shouldn't move far before the wheels respond, and the car should sit level without knocking over bumps. Suspension faults were found on 8.90% of tests in DVSA's latest figures, second only to lighting. They're hard to spot at home, so get suspension advisories looked at first.

Horn, seatbelts, mirrors and number plates: checks 13 to 16

13. Horn. It must work and be loud enough to be heard. On cars first used from 1 August 1973 it must give a continuous, uniform sound, so multi-tone horns fail.

14. Seatbelts. Pull each belt out fully and check for cuts, fraying and stretching, then check it buckles, releases and retracts. Testers lift folded seats to check the belts, and the airbag and pretensioner warning lights are checked too.

15. Mirrors. Cars first used from 26 January 2010 need both door mirrors plus an interior mirror, unless the interior one gives no view to the rear. Most older cars need at least two, including the driver's door mirror.

16. Number plates. Plates must be clean, secure and in the correct font and spacing. Tinted covers, films, patterned backgrounds and italic characters can all fail.

Fluids and warning lights: checks 17 and 18

17. Fluids. Brake fluid below the minimum mark is a minor defect, significantly below is major, and none visible is dangerous. The tester also checks the power steering fluid level. Go in with enough fuel and oil, as a tester can refuse a car that can't be driven for lack of either.

18. Dashboard warning lights. Warning lights should come on with the ignition, then go out once the engine runs. Some mean an automatic fail if they show a fault:

Warning light If it shows a fault
Engine management (petrol cars first used from 1 July 2003, diesels from 1 July 2008) Major: fail
ABS (anti-lock brakes) Major: fail
ESC (stability control) Major: fail
Airbag (SRS) Major: fail
Electronic power steering Major: fail
Electronic parking brake Major: fail
Tyre pressure monitoring (cars first used from 1 January 2012) Major if the system is malfunctioning
Brake fluid warning light Minor: recorded, not a fail on its own

A tyre pressure light that's on only because a tyre is low isn't automatically a fault, so set your pressures and reset the system first. A light showing the passenger airbag is switched off isn't a defect.

Exhaust and bodywork: checks 19 and 20

19. Exhaust. Listen for blowing, rattling or an unusually loud exhaust, and look for loose parts. A petrol car fails if it puts out dense blue or clearly visible black smoke for five seconds at idle. A diesel with a particulate filter (DPF) fails if it emits visible smoke of any colour during the test, or if the DPF has been tampered with.

20. Doors, bonnet, boot, fuel cap and seats. Front doors must open from inside and out, rear doors from outside, and all must latch shut. The bonnet, boot and fuel cap must close securely, the driver's seat must adjust, and every seat must be secure.

What does the MOT tester check?

DVSA's guide to car parts checked at an MOT covers everything above, plus the body structure, fuel system, towbar, speedometer, VIN, battery and visible wiring. Dangerous and major defects mean a fail, while minor defects and advisories are recorded on a pass.

The test doesn't cover the condition of the engine, clutch or gearbox, and the wheels aren't removed. That's why it's no substitute for maintenance, as our guide to MOT vs service explains.

What to bring to your MOT

Usually nothing. The tester can ask for the V5C logbook, but normally only if the car has a private plate or the registration doesn't show its age. Do take:

  • the key for a locking fuel cap
  • the locking wheel nut key if you're also booking a service or repairs
  • a way to pay, in case the garage wants the fee up front

MOT-day tips: how to avoid a refusal or a fail

  • Clear the boot and seats. A tester can refuse to test a car if a load or other items would stop a proper test.
  • Don't arrive filthy. A car so dirty that examining it is unreasonably difficult can be refused. At least clean the lights and plates.
  • Arrive with a warm engine. GOV.UK advises taking a diesel in fully warmed up, as it produces less smoke. If you think the smoke test could damage your engine, tell the tester at the start.
  • Ask about on-the-spot fixes. A fault put right within an hour of the test can mean a pass after rectification, with no extra fee.

If the car fails, you can only drive it away if your current MOT is still valid and no dangerous defects were listed. Our guide to the most common MOT failures shows what usually goes wrong.

Next steps: get your MOT booked

  1. Run a free car check to confirm your MOT due date, then read past advisories in the MOT history check.
  2. Work through the 20 checks a week before the test, so there's time to order parts.
  3. Compare local garages and book your MOT.
  4. Book a car service for the same visit if one is due.
  5. Get MOT and tax reminders in the Car Check app.

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Frequently asked questions

Do I need to bring anything to my MOT?

Usually not. The tester may ask for the V5C logbook if your car has a private number plate or its age isn't clear from the registration. Leave the key with the car if it has a locking fuel cap.

Can an empty screenwash bottle fail an MOT?

Yes. Washers that don't work, or don't provide enough fluid to clear the windscreen, are a major defect, which means a fail. Top up before the test.

Can the garage fix small faults during the MOT?

Often, yes. If a fault such as a blown bulb is fixed within an hour of the test, the car can pass after rectification with no extra fee. The defect is still recorded on the MOT history.

Is the spare tyre checked in an MOT?

No. Spare wheels and tyres aren't inspected, but it's worth checking yours is inflated and undamaged in case you need it.

How early can I take my car for its MOT?

Up to a month minus a day before your current MOT runs out, and you keep the same renewal date. If it expires on 15 May, the earliest date is 16 April.

This guide is general information, not legal or financial advice. Rules and prices change, so check GOV.UK or the relevant provider before you act. Some links are affiliate links; see our affiliate disclosure.